Yes. Toilet replacement includes removing the old unit, inspecting the flange and subfloor underneath, replacing the wax ring (or wax-free seal), setting and bolting the new toilet, hooking up the supply line (usually new), and testing through a full flush cycle. If the flange is cracked, rusted, or sitting below the finished floor, repair gets quoted before reinstall — there's no point setting a new toilet on a bad flange.

Yes. A wobbling toilet means the wax ring seal is being broken every time someone sits down — and sewer gas plus a slow leak is happening underneath each time. Sometimes it's just loose bolts (easy fix). Sometimes it's a cracked flange or rotted subfloor underneath (bigger fix). Mountain Man Plumbing diagnoses which one before quoting.

A few common causes: low water level in the tank (fill valve adjustment), partial clog in the trap or the line, mineral buildup in the rim jets under the bowl edge, or a worn flapper that closes too fast. Less commonly: a venting problem downstream. Mountain Man Plumbing works through the list before recommending a fix.

Yes. Wax ring replacement is one of the most common bathroom repairs — leaks at the base of the toilet, sewer smell in the bathroom, or a wobbling toilet usually trace back to a failed wax ring. Flange repair is trickier — cracked plastic flanges, rusted iron flanges, and flanges sitting below the finished floor all have different fixes, and Mountain Man Plumbing matches the repair to what's actually there.

Yes. Dripping shower valves are usually the cartridge (Moen, Delta, Kohler, Pfister) or the ceramic disc / valve seat depending on the brand. Most major brands have lifetime warranties on the cartridge so the part is often free — you're paying for labor. If the valve body itself is cracked, that's a bigger job because the wall has to open up.

Several possibilities: the hot side of the cartridge is failing (most common on Moen Posi-Temp and similar pressure-balancing valves), the anti-scald limit stop has shifted and is blocking the full hot range (easy fix), or the water heater itself is the issue. Mountain Man Plumbing tests both ends — the shower valve and the water heater — before recommending which one needs attention.

Modern shower valves are required by code to have anti-scald limit stops, but they can shift over time or be improperly set after a cartridge change. If your shower can go dangerously hot, the limit stop adjustment is usually a 10-minute fix. Older valves without anti-scald protection can be upgraded — worth doing in homes with kids or older adults.

Yes. Tub spout leaks usually come from a worn O-ring inside the spout, a stuck diverter valve, or (on older setups) a cracked spout body. Diverter problems where the shower won't divert away from the tub spout are usually a worn diverter inside the spout or a failed cartridge. Spout replacement is a quick fix; valve work is bigger.

Yes. Shower head and hand-held wand swaps are quick — usually less than half an hour. Worth doing when mineral buildup has clogged the spray pattern or when you want to upgrade to a low-flow model. Mountain Man Plumbing uses real thread tape and torque, no leaks at the arm.

Usually hair, soap scum, and toothpaste buildup at the pop-up stopper or in the P-trap. Sometimes a partial clog further down the branch line. Mountain Man Plumbing pulls the stopper, clears the trap, and checks flow under load — most slow bathroom drains are a quick fix when caught early.

Three common causes: a dry P-trap on a fixture you don't use often (the seasonal-use shower or sink — run water for 30 seconds and the smell usually goes away), a failed wax ring under a toilet, or a venting issue pulling sewer gas back through the wrong fixture. Mountain Man Plumbing finds the actual source before recommending a fix.

Yes. Mountain Man Plumbing handles single-fixture replacements and full bathroom plumbing rough-ins. For a full remodel, the plumbing work is usually staged around drywall, tile, and finish carpentry — call early so the rough-in is in the wall before the tile crew shows up.

Yes, with one caveat: complete, decent-quality, code-compliant fixtures install fine. If the toilet is missing the supply line, the faucet doesn't have the right deck plate, or the shower trim kit is the wrong rough-in for your existing valve, you'll hear about it before any work begins. Customer-supplied fixtures save real money when the fixture is decent. They cost real money when it isn't.

Yes. Old multi-turn compression stops and stiff supply lines are the most common cause of "I tried to fix my own toilet and now it's leaking" calls. Upgrading to modern quarter-turn ball valves and new braided stainless supply lines while a fixture is already off is one of the highest-value small upgrades in any bathroom.

Technically that's mechanical/HVAC, not plumbing — but exhaust fan venting affects bathroom moisture and indoor air quality so it gets asked here often. If yours vents into the attic instead of through the roof or soffit, that's code violation territory and worth getting fixed before mold becomes a bigger problem. Mountain Man Plumbing can refer to a trusted local mechanical contractor for that work.

Mountain Man Plumbing can document the work and provide invoices, photos, and cause-of-loss notes for insurance claims (especially when a wax ring or supply line leak has caused subfloor or ceiling damage), but doesn't bill insurance directly. You pay for the work and submit to your carrier for reimbursement where covered.

Clear out the cabinet under the sink so I can get to the supply lines, angle stops, and P-trap. Move bath mats, toiletries, and anything else away from the work area. If something's actively leaking, close the fixture's shutoff valve (or the main water shutoff if you can't reach the fixture stops).

Yes. A lot of homeowners don't find theirs until water's already on the bathroom floor. Mountain Man Plumbing will identify your main shutoff, label it, and walk you through how to use it — that 30-second tour might save you thousands the next time something fails.

Yes — fully licensed and insured. Master Plumber License #12992295-5501. Homeowners who want to verify can use the public lookup at the Utah Division of Professional Licensing.

Mountain Man Plumbing serves Sandy, Draper, South Jordan, West Jordan, West Valley City, Murray, Cottonwood Heights, Millcreek, Taylorsville, Herriman, Riverton, Holladay, Midvale, and the broader Salt Lake County area. We also handle Park City (Summit County), Alta, and Lehi (Utah County).

Locally owned, residential-focused, and run without the scripted sales playbook the bigger outfits use. Where the chain shops show up trying to turn a simple wax ring replacement into a "full toilet rebuild package" quote, Mountain Man Plumbing shows up with a diagnosis, an honest scope of work, and one fair price. You get a Master Plumber on every call, not a "comfort advisor" upselling things you don't need.